The last parts to go on my Fem!Tamaki blazer – apart from buttons – were the sleeves. I would say they were the most tricky part, but since the whole thing was tricky to make I don’t think that’s accurate! My lovely mum actually did all the hard bits here because it was two days before we had to travel to Middlesbrough and I had no clue how to make sleeves fit.
Since the blazer itself was made from edited patterns, the sleeves had to be guessed a little too. We started with a sleeve shape from a jacket pattern we had, then Mum did some measuring and we tried the paper pattern around my arm. Here are the two sleeves cut out of the blue fabric.
While my mum did the slight gathering around the top of the sleeves that helps them to fit over your shoulder…
(See my post about gathering fabric here.)
…I started making the cuffs. Since these were going to have very thick interfacing in them it didn’t really matter too much what the material was, so I just used an old bedsheet! I cut out four rectangles – two for each cuff, to sandwich the interfacing between – the length of which would fit the circumference of the ends of the sleeves, and the height of which was a bit taller than I would like the cuffs to be, to fit seam allowance and to let them fold up over the blue fabric.
I ironed the interfacing onto two of the pieces, then pinned them to the plain pieces, interfacing on the outside. You can see I drew a line on the plain piece of fabric – this was the line I would sew along to make the shape of the cuff when the fabric was turned inside out (as you will see further down).
I sewed along the lines I’d drawn…
…Cut the excess fabric away and cut into the very corner of the triangle…
…Then turned both cuffs inside out to hide the stitching and neaten the edges. I ironed them thoroughly, too, to make the seams flat.
With the cuffs the shape I wanted, it was time to attach them to the sleeves so they could be finished.
I ironed some seams into the cuffs…
…Then laid the cuff down with the sleeve in the middle of the seams. Here it’s folded back so you can see.
The cuffs were sewed like this to the sleeves, and then Mum sewed the sleeves up along the arm seams and then to the blazer – way more neatly than she had expected to, haha! We also put shoulder pads in the blazer when Mum remembered she had some and we saw that the shoulders had good space for them.
The cuffs ended up being very tight around my arms, so in retrospect I didn’t need interfacing quite as thick as the stuff I got… The sleeves themselves we quite tight, too – as per my request – so all in all I couldn’t move my arms very much! But they looked fantastic, which was all that really mattered. Many thanks to my mum for helping me even though she was more stressed than I was, and for making my blazer look extra beautiful with her awesome sleeves!
(The cuffs were ‘rolled’ – folded – up before wearing the jacket.)
I especially liked how, by complete accident, the shoulders of the sleeves would stay in place when my arms moved out just like how they’re drawn in the anime (see Hikaru’s sleeve on the right-hand side):
I had been worried initially that there might not be time to do the sleeves, or that no one would be able to figure out how, and the blazer would end up sleeveless, and I am so glad it didn’t – once the sleeves were on it just looked one thousand times more finished and posh. Limited movement and all, I couldn’t be happier with this.